Notable Black Designers:

Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley- One of the first noted black designers. Keckley created President Lincoln’s wife inaugural ball gown.

Ann Lowe- Sewed for the Rockefellers, DuPonts, Roosevelts and Posts;
Designed the dress that Olivia de Havilland an Academy Award winner for Best Actress in 1946.
Her most famous client was Jacqueline Kennedy. Lowe designed the 1953 wedding dress Jacqueline wore to marry Sen. John Kennedy.

Patrick Kelly- His designs wore sold at prestigious retailers such as Henri Bendels, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, and worn by movie stars and celebrities like Isabella Rossellini, Bette Davis, Cicely Tyson, Grace Jones. Kelly signed a five million dollar contract to create a line of clothing for Warnaco, which gave him international recognition.

Barrie and Burrows- The black designers made it big in New York’s garment district in the 1960s. They altered the perception that blacks couldn’t make it in the white-dominated fashion field. Stephen Burrows hung out with Warhol, dressed Cher and frequented Studio 5. Burrows was a Coty-Award winning designer who was also chosen, in 1973, as one of only 5 designers to represent American fashion at the world famous fashion show at Versailles.

Willi Smith- Made sportswear under the WilliWear label ushering in the modern sportswear separates era with his easy-fitting styles. WilliWear grossed $25 million in 1986. Smith,won the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for Women’s Fashion in 1983. Caroline Kennedy’s marriage to Edwin Schlossberg- the suits for the groom and his groomsmen were Williwear exclusives

Jeffrey Banks- brought new elegance to menswear.design assistant to the president, Ralph Lauren-design assistant to president, Calvin Klein-later. owner of design business, Jeffrey Banks LTD.

Ann Lowe-Designed Wedding Dress

Vintage Couture and Accessories Auction Leslie Hindman Auctioneers  April 19, 2009

Galanos Black Evening Ensemble-Sold $549

Donald Brooks Silver Dress-Sold $1,586

Sonia Rykiel Ostrich Evening Coat-Sold $3,172

Halston Aubergine Chiffon And Sequin Evening Gown-Sold $2,684

Judith Leiber Pink Pig Minaudiere-Estimate $1000-2000- Sold $1342

A Gripoix for Chanel Pink, Purple and Green Pate Necklace with Rhinestones-Estimate $4000- Sold $4880

Harvey Berin Green Chiffon Evening Gown-Estimate-$500- Sold $366

A Hermes Slate Grey Kelly Bag    $3,904

A Jean Patou Black Silk Dress $3,416

A Pierre Cardin Aqua Silk Couture Dress $2,074

A Genny Oro Leather and Faille Gown $2,684

A Halston Black Evening Ensemble $2,318

www.lesliehindman.com/departments/couture/

A vintage Cartier watch, a pair of Levis jeans, from the 1970’s. A Gucci handbag from the 1980’s. Any of these pieces purchased at auction, estate or a high-end vintage store are indeed “vintage” with the same semblance of high quality workmanship.

“Vintage” referring to the period when theses items were manufactured; where counterfeited heavily during these same times. Many vintage knock-offs could still be circulating today with buyers paying real prices for fakes.

In the 1970’s the counterfeit fashion trade was already estimated in the tens of millions of dollars. ”From 1960 to 1970, we all sold too many licenses,” Marc Vincent, of Saint Laurent, admits. Most designers during this time did not control manufacturing, which was done by licensees.

Several counterfeit Cartier boutiques sprung up during this era selling thousands of watches.

An early opportunist in the Mexico knockoff trade was a man named Fernando Pelletier. Cartier had held Mexican trademark rights, but in 1968 failed to renew them, thus allowing Mr. Pelletier’s company to start its own line of products labeled ”Cartier,” including jewelry and watches. It took over ten years for Cartier to win its legal battle with Pelletier.  Cartier estimated that 40,000 fake high-quality ”Tank” watches had been sold during 1976. Christian Dior, with annual sales of $365 million in 1980, spent $406,000 protecting its 813 registered trademarks.

Rare Vintage Levi jeans can sell today for $3,000. But is the classic vintage pair that you purchased a rip-off from the very same Vintage era the jeans came from?  In the late 70’s two Southern California men offered a private investigator posing as a clothing buyer 50,000 pairs of the counterfeit jeans a month for nine months. During this period in Italy the number one selling jean was Levi. The number two brand was counterfeit Levis.

Jordache jeans estimated their loss from counterfeiters in 1981 was in excess of over $1 million dollars alone. Levi Strauss seized $2.5 million worth of jeans in 1977 from a ring that extended from Britain to Switzerland, Italy, Belgium and Taiwan.

Many fakes of the late 70’s and early 80’s were produced to the same standards as the real deal. Quality fabrics used in counterfeiting were often sourced from the same suppliers. Louis Vuitton bag counterfeiters often used the same French zipper. Early fake Cartier watches were made of solid gold and were indistinguishable unless you dissembled the timepiece. Christian Dior fashion knockoffs were so good that even Dior’s people had difficulty telling the difference.

How can you tell if your Levi’s are vintage knockoffs?  Stitching, labeling and fabric are clues to look for. Often the denim in counterfeits is 10-ounce instead of 12-or 14-ounce; thread may be thinner, stitching sloppy, seams not straight, zippers of cheaper quality.

Jordache says a shopper can be sure about Jordache jeans in two ways: the horse head on the zipper and the initials ”JD” on the back of the button at the waist.

A Cartier watch is better taken to Cartier so that the internal time piece is inspected; counterfeiters used cheap internal mechanisms in their watches.

Link to Vintage Fashion Media- “Louis Vuitton- Telling Real From Fakes”

http://vintagefashionnews.com/vintage-fashion-media/

By now you know at the recent Academy Award’s we admired Penelope Cruz wearing her 1950s vintage Pierre Balmain strapless ivory lace gown. Cruz purchased the dress  in Beverly Hills at Lily et Cie. The original sketch of the dress still exists at Pierre Balmain. The dress took well over a half a year to complete back in the 50’s. Recent market prices for a Pierre Balmain couture ball gown of that era will set you back under $3,000.

We don’t know what kind of bucks Penelope layed out for her Oscar dress, however vintage couture pieces at Lily et Cie can go as high as $75,000.

Prices include buyers premium

HERMÈS ORANGE LEATHER KELLY BAG WITH DUST BAG AND BOX $5,250

HERMÈS BLACK LEATHER KELLY BAG ESTIMATED DECADE 1950′S $4,375

LOUIS VUITTON 20TH CENTURY TRUNK 13¼” high, 35½” wide, 20″ deep $5,625

LOUIS VUITTON SUITCASE ON LATER STAND 18½” high, 31″wide, 20¾” deep $3,750

Skinner-Boston Recent Sales

Judith Leiber Yellow Satin Rhinestone-studded Evening Bag 1970s -Sold $652

Vintage Madeleine Vionnet Evening Coat, French, labeled, 1930s. Sold $1,896

Costume Jewelry-

Two Vintage Miriam Haskell Costume Brooches and a Miriam Haskell Costume Bracelet, 1950s, signed    $119

Trifari Costume Bracelet and a Pair of Trifari Costume Earrings, 1940s     $474

Vintage Miriam Haskell Faux Gray Pearl and Purple Paste Costume Bracelet, 1950s, signed  $59

Vintage Walter Lampl Coral Bead, Gilt-metal Scallop Shell, and Turquoise Costume Choker, 1930s-40s  $296

Three Vintage Miriam Haskell Brooches, 1960s-70s,signed, including a caramel art glass bead and seed bead floral brooch  $119

Bags & Shoes

Vintage Gucci Monogram Canvas Bag  $207

Vintage Judith Leiber Yellow Satin Rhinestone-studded Evening Bag, 1970s, with dust bag $652

Kate Spade Basket Purse, 1990s $178

Pair of Salvatore Ferragamo Black Suede Calf Boots, 1980s $89

Small Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas Duffel, Paris, 1990s  $326

Clothing-

Large Hermes Cashmere and Silk Jungle Love Shawl, Robert Dallet designed, 1990s    $356

Vintage Madeleine Vionnet Burgundy Velvet and Silk Satin Fur Trimmed Evening Coat, French, labeled, 1930s     $1,896

Vintage Pauline Trigere Printed Silk Outfit, 1960s, labeled, Cyreld $444

Vintage Chloe Black Lace and Tulle Cocktail Dress, 1980s $593

Vintage Miss Bergdorfs, Bergdorf Goodman Black Velvet Cocktail Ensemble, 1960s $119

Vicki Theil Black Silk and Satin Cocktail Dress, 1980s $385

Hanae Mori Three-piece Evening Outfit, 1980s $178

Gianfranco Ferre Black Wool and Silk Long Sleeved Gown, 1990s $148

Vera Wang Black Silk and Sheer Net Cocktail Dress, 1990s $119

Two-piece Emanuel Ungaro Beaded Gray Silk Evening Ensemble $59

Vintage Rudi Gernreich Three-piece Wool Bathing Outfit, 1960s $326

Vintage Emilio Pucci Velvet Jumpsuit, 1970s $563

Vintage Emilio Pucci Silk Baby Doll Blouse/Mini Dress, 1970s $415

Pair of Vintage Lilly Pulitzer Cigarette Pants, 1970s $148

Two Vintage Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche Printed Cotton Shirts, 1970s $356

Chanel Yellow Silk Two-piece Ensemble, 1980s $119

Perry Ellis Purple/Blue Variegated Wool Blend Oversized Sweater, 1980s $178

Donna Karan Two-piece Aubergine Wool Wrap-style Suit, 1980s $296

Donna Karan Brown Boucle Wool Blend Wrap Dress, 1990s $119

Mans Burberry Raincoat, 1980s $148

Vintage Mans Burberry Fairviewer Raincoat, 1960s $178

Ebay sales jumped over 75% one day after the death of Yves Saint Laurent. The short term market frenzy was perhaps eager sellers trying to unload their fashion collectables on the unsophisticated buyer who anticipate that death equates to opportunity to resell at even higher returns. Perhaps a word of caution to “collectors” that assume death equates to financial opportunity.

At the recent Christie’s vintage couture auction in New York a 1958 Yves Saint Laurent French evening dress was estimated to sell for as high as $12,000. Christie’s conservative estimate was $1,000 to $1,500 and actually sold for$1,063.

An Yves Saint Laurent cut-out floral necklace from 1990 was estimated in some sophisticated circles to sell for as high as $5000-$6000. Although Christie’s conservative estimate of $1,000 to $1,500 was nearer the mark, the necklace sold for $1,125.

The market for fashion can be incredibly unpredictable. When Gianni Versace was murdered in 1997, his clothes were not in vogue at the time and didn’t incite a rush to buy.

Celebrity hairdresser James Brown’s Ebay auction for Cancer Research UK included donations from celebrities Sienna Millerand Kylie Minogue. However the buzz centered around the vintage Christian Dior dress donated by Kate Moss and worn at the V&A Golden Age Couture in September 2007.  The pale gold dress worn by Moss at the V&A was accidentally torn at the shoulder and a hole emerged later across the back. Brown’s Ebay auction raised more than $30,000. The controversial Moss dress sold for more than $1200.00.

At the SAG awards Angelina Jolie’s vintage Hermes dress fueled speculation amongst the press that the actress is pregnant. However many true Vintage collectors are more focused more on the dress itself.

The Hermes dress, a tie-dye brown horse print is from Juliana Cairone Rare Vintage collection. Angelina was not the first to wear a Cairone’s Rare Vintage; Debra Messing wore a Vintage Oscar de la Renta at a recent Red Carpet event.

Opened in February of 2007 Juliana Cairone’s store features vintage designs by Loris Azzaro, Chanel, Ossie Clark, Halston and Givenchy.

Cairone shops mainly in France and Italy where unique couture pieces seem an easier find. Juliana’s collection features those hard to find vintage pieces. She describes her collection as “Exclusive and glamorous pieces from the twentieth century’s most significant design houses”. However she does not limit her wares to just earlier periods. You may find designers as recently as of 2006.

No price tag on Angelina Jolie’s Hermes dress. But a rare Yves Saint Laurent gown was selling recently for $12,000 at Cairone’s shop in Manhattan.