Investing In Vintage Fashion Today-Good, Rare Clothing In Any Economy Commands A Price

Leslie Hindman Auctioneers

VintageFashionNews interviewed two respected Auction Houses to determine the strength of today’s vintage clothing market and which designers to look for when buying at auction.

Nicole Nicas Rovner is from Skinner Auctioneers & Appraisers, Boston-
Abigail K. Rutherford is the Director of Vintage Couture and Accessories of Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, Chicago-

1) We hear a lot about the general art market auction prices either tumbling or in some cases increasing with the current economic conditions. What do you see with vintage clothing?

Regardless of the overall economic trend, vintage fashion has always been a volatile market. It does not seem to have a relative tie to the markets the same way gold does to oil, for example. That said, the trend that is apparent in today’s auction market does also apply to vintage fashion: good, rare material continues to perform well and achieve record prices, while middle of the road material struggles.-Nicole

There is still a very strong market for Vintage.  We actually have seen no change thus far and our most recent auction realized some record prices!-Abigail

2)Which vintage designers have you seen as a good investment? That is are there any vintage clothing labels that seem to be holding their own in value despite the economic downturn?

Pucci, Hermes, Balmain, Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Yves St. Laurent,—these are all examples of good performers at auction and have been in good times and bad. What unites most of these designers is their “classic” nature: the lines and silhouettes transcend the decades and ride the wave of a rocky economy.-Nicole

There are the more obvious designers like Chanel, Hermes, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior that have stayed and will always remain pretty consistent.  As for other designers, we have seen some great prices in the past few auctions on eveningwear from Halston, Mugler, Galanos, Versace, Givenchy, Norman Norell, Geoffrey Beene, Charles James and Michaele Vollbracht.   We get the best prices on any sort of evening gown examples from the above designers, but never their daywear examples!  Great daywear designers that realize high prices are generally from Courreges, Moschino and Pierre Cardin.
-Abigail

3) Any lesser known vintage labels that you see becoming more collectible?

These are not “lesser-known” to fashionistas or collectors but vintage Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Halston, Bill Blass, Missoni, for example have been performing better in the past few years. Again, the importance being the “classic” nature of the silhouette and/or the interesting technique shown in the use of textures and textiles.
-Nicole

Vollbracht is very well known, but not to all.  We have realized some records prices for his work recently.  Same with Bill Gibb.-Abigail

4) Do you see vintage clothing prices today at “bargain prices” as compared to say three or four years ago? If yes- which designers do you see at “bargain” investments?

There is certainly an opportunity to acquire quality vintage fashion in today’s market at an affordable price. The above designers are on the rise but still very accessible. Oddly, Pedro Rodriguez, Pauline Trigere, and others of that echelon seem to be much more accessible these days than say in the early part of the 21st century. Perhaps these designers have become more obscure to the youngest generation of collectors because their name does not survive the way other houses have continued to maintain their brand presence? I am not sure. What is for certain is the level of skill and understanding of the line/silhouette is far superior to the appreciation paid to them.
-Nicole

There are always some great finds in our auctions that are at a much more approachable price point.  We generally find that great separates or day wear from Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent can be had at a non-investment price!  Also quirky Moschino pieces that are not book pieces are always collectable, yet approachable.  Dior couture post 1962 can generally be had at a great price because collectors are not as interested post Dior and YSL, but Bohan was still an incredible designer creating gorgeous garments.
-Abigail

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