Since its 1937 debut, the Hermès scarf has had over two thousand different design changes.  Grace Kelly once used an Hermès scarf as a sling when she broke her arm. The history of the Hermès scarf is available for preorder in a new book from Nadine Coleno, out November 2.

Christie’s auction house has teamed up with Gucci to evaluate Vintage Gucci products online. The website part of Christie’s will be up and running by the end of this year at christies.com. Learn more about the risks of purchasing Vintage counterfeits.

American Made Vintage will be harder to find. A Solid film that looks back to the heyday of  apparel manufacturing in the U.S.  In the mid 1960’s, over 95% of American clothing was made in the U.S.A.; by 2009, only 5% is made in the U.S.A.

Schmatta: Rags to Riches to Rags

Leslie Hindman Auctioneers

VintageFashionNews interviewed two respected Auction Houses to determine the strength of today’s vintage clothing market and which designers to look for when buying at auction.

Nicole Nicas Rovner is from Skinner Auctioneers & Appraisers, Boston-
Abigail K. Rutherford is the Director of Vintage Couture and Accessories of Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, Chicago-

1) We hear a lot about the general art market auction prices either tumbling or in some cases increasing with the current economic conditions. What do you see with vintage clothing?

Regardless of the overall economic trend, vintage fashion has always been a volatile market. It does not seem to have a relative tie to the markets the same way gold does to oil, for example. That said, the trend that is apparent in today’s auction market does also apply to vintage fashion: good, rare material continues to perform well and achieve record prices, while middle of the road material struggles.-Nicole

There is still a very strong market for Vintage.  We actually have seen no change thus far and our most recent auction realized some record prices!-Abigail

2)Which vintage designers have you seen as a good investment? That is are there any vintage clothing labels that seem to be holding their own in value despite the economic downturn?

Pucci, Hermes, Balmain, Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Yves St. Laurent,—these are all examples of good performers at auction and have been in good times and bad. What unites most of these designers is their “classic” nature: the lines and silhouettes transcend the decades and ride the wave of a rocky economy.-Nicole

There are the more obvious designers like Chanel, Hermes, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior that have stayed and will always remain pretty consistent.  As for other designers, we have seen some great prices in the past few auctions on eveningwear from Halston, Mugler, Galanos, Versace, Givenchy, Norman Norell, Geoffrey Beene, Charles James and Michaele Vollbracht.   We get the best prices on any sort of evening gown examples from the above designers, but never their daywear examples!  Great daywear designers that realize high prices are generally from Courreges, Moschino and Pierre Cardin.
-Abigail

3) Any lesser known vintage labels that you see becoming more collectible?

These are not “lesser-known” to fashionistas or collectors but vintage Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Halston, Bill Blass, Missoni, for example have been performing better in the past few years. Again, the importance being the “classic” nature of the silhouette and/or the interesting technique shown in the use of textures and textiles.
-Nicole

Vollbracht is very well known, but not to all.  We have realized some records prices for his work recently.  Same with Bill Gibb.-Abigail

4) Do you see vintage clothing prices today at “bargain prices” as compared to say three or four years ago? If yes- which designers do you see at “bargain” investments?

There is certainly an opportunity to acquire quality vintage fashion in today’s market at an affordable price. The above designers are on the rise but still very accessible. Oddly, Pedro Rodriguez, Pauline Trigere, and others of that echelon seem to be much more accessible these days than say in the early part of the 21st century. Perhaps these designers have become more obscure to the youngest generation of collectors because their name does not survive the way other houses have continued to maintain their brand presence? I am not sure. What is for certain is the level of skill and understanding of the line/silhouette is far superior to the appreciation paid to them.
-Nicole

There are always some great finds in our auctions that are at a much more approachable price point.  We generally find that great separates or day wear from Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent can be had at a non-investment price!  Also quirky Moschino pieces that are not book pieces are always collectable, yet approachable.  Dior couture post 1962 can generally be had at a great price because collectors are not as interested post Dior and YSL, but Bohan was still an incredible designer creating gorgeous garments.
-Abigail

1980’s

Vivienne Westwood -
Buffalo Girls Collection (Autumn-Winter 1982-83)baggy, layered look, earthy colours.

Nolan Miller gained fame as the “Dynasty” designer. Miller also designed  TV shows, including Love Boat and Fantasy Island.  Dynasty defined the trend of what business women should wear to the office. Although shoulder pads date back to the Victorian Age and were popular in the 1940’s, the prime time series revived the shoulder pad fashion statement.

Nolan Miller Pink Suit-The Dynasty Collection

Shoulder pad detail-Nolan Miller

Trends

-Chemises are in the news again thanks to Yves Saint Laurent in his 1983 Paris couture collection.

-Jumpsuits make a comeback
-Sailing themes show up repeatedly in clothing

Albert Nipon

-Donna Karan-Zebra-patterned sweaters
-Clothing and jewelry inspired by Africa, India and Saudi Arabia

Retro fashion in 1983; glitter was gold. Anything with sequins and beads flew off the shelf. The best seller at Saks was designer Sister Max. The beaded dresses made in New Delhi were selling extremely well in 1983 for $400. For the big money Galanos sequined handmade  jackets sold for $10,000.

Sequins need very little upkeep. No ironing is necessary and solidly beaded dresses will not wrinkle.

In the summer of 1983 the "punk" cut was being replaced by the signature short haircut ''Lulu'' style, inspired by 1920's actress Louise Brooks.

Notable Black Designers:

Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley- One of the first noted black designers. Keckley created President Lincoln’s wife inaugural ball gown.

Ann Lowe- Sewed for the Rockefellers, DuPonts, Roosevelts and Posts;
Designed the dress that Olivia de Havilland an Academy Award winner for Best Actress in 1946.
Her most famous client was Jacqueline Kennedy. Lowe designed the 1953 wedding dress Jacqueline wore to marry Sen. John Kennedy.

Patrick Kelly- His designs wore sold at prestigious retailers such as Henri Bendels, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, and worn by movie stars and celebrities like Isabella Rossellini, Bette Davis, Cicely Tyson, Grace Jones. Kelly signed a five million dollar contract to create a line of clothing for Warnaco, which gave him international recognition.

Barrie and Burrows- The black designers made it big in New York’s garment district in the 1960s. They altered the perception that blacks couldn’t make it in the white-dominated fashion field. Stephen Burrows hung out with Warhol, dressed Cher and frequented Studio 5. Burrows was a Coty-Award winning designer who was also chosen, in 1973, as one of only 5 designers to represent American fashion at the world famous fashion show at Versailles.

Willi Smith- Made sportswear under the WilliWear label ushering in the modern sportswear separates era with his easy-fitting styles. WilliWear grossed $25 million in 1986. Smith,won the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for Women’s Fashion in 1983. Caroline Kennedy’s marriage to Edwin Schlossberg- the suits for the groom and his groomsmen were Williwear exclusives

Jeffrey Banks- brought new elegance to menswear.design assistant to the president, Ralph Lauren-design assistant to president, Calvin Klein-later. owner of design business, Jeffrey Banks LTD.

Ann Lowe-Designed Wedding Dress

Vintage Couture and Accessories Auction Leslie Hindman Auctioneers  April 19, 2009

Galanos Black Evening Ensemble-Sold $549

Donald Brooks Silver Dress-Sold $1,586

Sonia Rykiel Ostrich Evening Coat-Sold $3,172

Halston Aubergine Chiffon And Sequin Evening Gown-Sold $2,684

Judith Leiber Pink Pig Minaudiere-Estimate $1000-2000- Sold $1342

A Gripoix for Chanel Pink, Purple and Green Pate Necklace with Rhinestones-Estimate $4000- Sold $4880

Harvey Berin Green Chiffon Evening Gown-Estimate-$500- Sold $366

A Hermes Slate Grey Kelly Bag    $3,904

A Jean Patou Black Silk Dress $3,416

A Pierre Cardin Aqua Silk Couture Dress $2,074

A Genny Oro Leather and Faille Gown $2,684

A Halston Black Evening Ensemble $2,318

www.lesliehindman.com/departments/couture/